Knitting with Handspun: An Adventure in Duplicating Commercial Yarn

May 13, 2009

In my last post, I talked about my belated New Year’s fiber resolution—conscious spinning. I’ve been making an effort to plan out my yarn before spinning instead of just falling into my comfort zone and taking whatever my wheel wants to give me.

I’m midway through my first conscious-spinning challenge—knitting a project intended for commercial yarn out of handspun. The Interweave store has a ton of great patterns, and I’ve discovered that duplicating millspun yarn is not as intimidating as I had feared. I chose the Cabled Leggings pattern because I’m not an incredibly advanced knitter, and it looks to be about my skill level, and because I think leg warmers are the perfect accessory to transition between winter and spring—they’re great for those too-warm-for-pants, too-cool-for-shorts type of days.

I looked up the commercial yarn suggested for this pattern and found out that it is a 4-ply, light worsted-weight yarn. Using this handy chart, I decided to aim for a finished yarn measuring about 13 wraps per inch. I chose to make a 3-ply yarn instead of a 4-ply, so my singles each need to be about 39 wraps per inch (13 x 3). The easiest way that I know of to judge a yarn’s size while spinning is to use my newly discovered favorite conscious-spinning tool, the spinning control card. A control card makes it really easy to spin yarn of a certain size—just hold your yarn up to the lines to see if it’s too thin, too thick, or just right. Armed with measurements and handy tools, I spun a yarn that measures 14 wraps per inch. Not quite perfect, but a first attempt that I’m very satisfied with—and I purposely chose a pattern that doesn’t require exact sizing.

Lesson learned: Yarn substitution is not nearly as scary as I had built it up to be in my mind. I’d want to practice more before attempting anything needing an exact fit, but I’m no longer afraid! Taking the time to figure out my yarn specifications and having the right tools made this a really easy process, so if you’re like me, put aside your apprehension and just try it! The world is full of great patterns just waiting to shine in handspun!

And if you’re already a pro at replicating millspun yarns, I’d love to hear your handy tips! Any special tricks I should know about?


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Comments

on May 13, 2009 5:21 AM

Personally, I find that the control card doesn't work nearly as well for me as comparing against some singles wrapped around a business card or ruler. The 3Dness of the singles---and the fact that they have twist, which the lines on the card don't---really makes it easy to compare other singles against them as you're spinning. Usually, I spin a few yards until I've gotten what I think I want, then take a yard off to wrap around a card, join, and keep spinning.

SusanR@5 wrote
on May 13, 2009 9:25 AM

After struggling to make a square peg fit a round hole, I finally found the right project for the yarn I was spinning. I swatched my two-ply Falkland and tussah silk yarn for  Norah Gaughan's Nantucket Jacket -- a structured sweater with cables and seed stitch columns. What a disaster. The stitches were overwhelmed by the yarn. I tried again with a lacy, surplice-style sweater by Gayle Bunn. What a difference! The yarn, the pattern, and the style complement rather than fight with each other. My next challenge is to spin the smooth, tightly plied yarn that the Nantucket Jacket requires.

Sylvia@5 wrote
on May 13, 2009 10:30 AM

I highly recommend taking Alden Amos' Spinning to a Standard class.  He makes it all so easy and logical.  You learn which measurements matter and how to do them, then how to make something similar yourself.  

It took some practice, but I can now spin any fiber and any style to the desired grist, and consistently over any number of bobbins.  It's really nice to be able to pick up an old ball of handspun or a bit of commercial yarn and decide to make something just a bit lighter weight and higher twist, and with Alden's methods it's as easy as making a smaller batch of cookies.  Alden will keep you laughing, too!

In the meantime, get a digital scale or a balance and start measuring grist in yards per pound.  If you punch holes along the edge of some cardstock and put it in a binder, you can tie a snippet of the singles, a snippet of the plied yarn, and write your notes, including grist and twists per inch.  

The next time you want to match (or improve upon!) a specitic yarn, take a snippet and compare it to the ones in your notebook.  I've found that I'm attracted to a few types of yarn and usually have something close that I can use as a guide/starting point -- it saves a lot of time.

Another exercise that helps is to do a grist activity with your guild.  You can all use the same batch of fiber and spin three different grists and compare notes.  It's a lot of fun and a great learning experience.  Sometimes all you need to do is change the size of your drafting triangle or have your hands a few inches closer.  --Sylvia  

Zadok wrote
on May 13, 2009 9:17 PM

fantastic hints  !!!

on Jun 8, 2009 12:33 PM

This looks familiar to what I posted a while back.

If you have trouble downloading, try here:

spinoffmagazine.com/.../692.aspx

This is another good chart:

spinoffmagazine.com/.../413.aspx