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Acid Dyes: Step By Step with Mary Berry
Whether you are new to acid dyes or just curious to see another experienced dyer at work, Mary’s step-by-step instructions are a great way to peek into her Texas dyeing studio.
Fiber artist Mary Berry wrote a fantastic article for Spin Off Spring 2024 that explores saturation. “Pastel to Pure Hue: Dyeing with Value and Saturation in Mind” takes a close look at one dye—Jacquard’s Turquoise—to show how to go about determining the perennial question of “how much dye do I need?” Because the combination of dye color, fiber type, and dye process can impact results, Mary’s simple test can help you do your own color sleuthing.
Mary also shared her personal approach to working with acid dyes in her studio. Because every dyer works a bit differently, we wanted to share her method. We learned a few things that we’ll try in our own dye adventures and hope you will, too! —Editors
Mary’s Acid-Dye Process
By Mary Berry
Safety Notes: Breathing dye or citric-acid powder may be harmful. Wear an N95 (or better) mask when working with powders. Wear latex or rubber gloves and safety glasses. Keep dye and dye solutions out of the reach of children. Pots and utensils that have been used for dyeing should never be used in food preparation.
1) Decide how much yarn or fiber you would like to dye. If you are dyeing solid colors, make sure the fibers have room to move around in the dyepot. If using skeins, be sure they are tied loosely in at least two places (more is better) as to not impede the absorption of the dye.
2) Decide which hue or hues you want to dye. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions to determine how much dye powder they recommend for the weight of goods.
3) Do the math. A gram scale is inexpensive and accurate, and programs such as Microsoft Excel can make the math fast and easy. For example: 1 ounce (28 grams) of fiber and 4% depth of shade will have the formula 28 x 0.04 and results in 1.12 grams of dye powder.
4) Soak the the fiber in tepid water and a few drops of Synthrapol to wet. (Synthrapol acts as a wetting agent. If you do not have this product, just allow fiber to soak longer.)
5) Mix the dye. In a heat-safe container, measure out dye powder. To mix, add 1/2 cup (118 milliliters) of not-quite-boiling water to dissolve the dye. Stir. Now, add 1/2 cup of lukewarm water and a mixer magnet and place on a magnetic mixer for 5 minutes. Tip: Use a set of metal tongs to extract your magnet. The magnet will find you.
Fiber artist Mary Berry wrote a fantastic article for Spin Off Spring 2024 that explores saturation. “Pastel to Pure Hue: Dyeing with Value and Saturation in Mind” takes a close look at one dye—Jacquard’s Turquoise—to show how to go about determining the perennial question of “how much dye do I need?” Because the combination of dye color, fiber type, and dye process can impact results, Mary’s simple test can help you do your own color sleuthing.
Mary also shared her personal approach to working with acid dyes in her studio. Because every dyer works a bit differently, we wanted to share her method. We learned a few things that we’ll try in our own dye adventures and hope you will, too! —Editors
Mary’s Acid-Dye Process
By Mary Berry
Safety Notes: Breathing dye or citric-acid powder may be harmful. Wear an N95 (or better) mask when working with powders. Wear latex or rubber gloves and safety glasses. Keep dye and dye solutions out of the reach of children. Pots and utensils that have been used for dyeing should never be used in food preparation.
1) Decide how much yarn or fiber you would like to dye. If you are dyeing solid colors, make sure the fibers have room to move around in the dyepot. If using skeins, be sure they are tied loosely in at least two places (more is better) as to not impede the absorption of the dye.
2) Decide which hue or hues you want to dye. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions to determine how much dye powder they recommend for the weight of goods.
3) Do the math. A gram scale is inexpensive and accurate, and programs such as Microsoft Excel can make the math fast and easy. For example: 1 ounce (28 grams) of fiber and 4% depth of shade will have the formula 28 x 0.04 and results in 1.12 grams of dye powder.
4) Soak the the fiber in tepid water and a few drops of Synthrapol to wet. (Synthrapol acts as a wetting agent. If you do not have this product, just allow fiber to soak longer.)
5) Mix the dye. In a heat-safe container, measure out dye powder. To mix, add 1/2 cup (118 milliliters) of not-quite-boiling water to dissolve the dye. Stir. Now, add 1/2 cup of lukewarm water and a mixer magnet and place on a magnetic mixer for 5 minutes. Tip: Use a set of metal tongs to extract your magnet. The magnet will find you.[PAYWALL]
Magnetic stirrers, also called stir plates, are often used to mix solutions in laboratories. Inexpensive versions are available online and are great for dyeing! Simply add a magnetic stir bar designed for this use into the dye solution and turn on the plate. Photos by Mary Berry unless otherwise noted
6) Fill your dyepot with water. You will want to add a volume that will allow your fiber or yarn to swim freely. (Roving will require more water than yarn does.) Add the dye solution, stir, and add the fiber. Stir again.
7) Turn on the heat and bring up the temperature gradually to the manufacturer’s suggested heat level. I use a double induction burner because it is fast and easy to keep at a constant temperature. A laser thermometer makes it easy to check the exact temperature of the dye bath.
Many dyers and studios are switching from traditional hot plates to induction burners. Make sure your dyepots are compatible before giving it a try.
8) Once the temperature is at 150° F (65° C), add 1/2 cup of vinegar or 1 tablespoon of citric acid dissolved in 1/2 cup of water. You may need more citric acid (2 tablespoons per 4 ounces of water) or more vinegar (1 cup) for the darker colors. Do not pour the acid on the fiber or yarn itself, but gently pull the fiber to the side as it is added.
9) Gently stir the water occasionally while holding the temperature at 160°–180° F (71°–82° C) for an additional 20 minutes. If your dye is not exhausted (all absorbed by your yarn) at that time, add an additional 1–2 teaspoons of citric acid or 1/4 cup of vinegar and heat for an additional 20 minutes. If this still doesn’t exhaust all the dye, your yarn has likely reached its physical saturation point and will not hold any more dye.
After the acid is added to the dyepot, dye will begin to “strike,” attaching to the fiber surface.
10) Turn off the heat and let the dyepot cool down gradually. Once everything is cool, rinse in cool water until the water is clear. Press yarn in a towel and spin roving in a laundry spin dryer to remove excess moisture and hang or lay flat to dry.
There are as many ways to dye as there are dyers, and this is my way of working. I hope you enjoy dyeing your own yarns and fibers as much as I do!
Read Mary's companion article in the Spring 2024 issue of Spin Off, with the digital edition available starting February 29. And remember, if you are an active subscriber to Spin Off magazine, you have unlimited access to issues in the Spin Off Library, including Spring 2024.
Mary Berry creates fiber art by weaving, spinning, dyeing, and rug hooking. She also teaches at fiber festivals nationwide. Her special joy is seeing another student get hooked on playing with yarn and fiber.
