The Study in Pink Scarf

Ikat weaving is a stunning form of fiber art. The beautiful patterns created on traditional ikat weavings are not a result of fancy treadling or clever tapestry work but are built into the yarn itself through resist dyeing. As a spinner, it is exciting to create yarn that can be used to develop these designs. A true study in pink, this scarf uses avocado dye to create the ethereal spirit of an ikat cloth.

Rachel used three avocado dyepots to create three different pinks: the central panel was dyed using only pits, the accent stripes on the outer edges of the scarf were dyed with both pits and skins, and the weft was dyed using only skins. Photos by Matt Graves unless otherwise noted

[PAYWALL]

Spinning Notes

I really like using wool/silk blends for rigid-heddle woven scarves. I find that the silk lends extra strength to the thread, helping to prevent excessive pilling or fuzzing when the heddle abrades the fiber and also in the finished fabric. It adds a lovely sheen and drape to the finished cloth.
As an introduction to ikat-style resist dyeing, I chose to spin a thick, lofty yarn with 12 wraps per inch (wpi) to be woven at 7½ ends per inch (epi). Even with the thick yarn, tying the resists took several hours! I chose to do a backward worsted draft (short backward draft with compression) to make the spinning go a little faster than a worsted that is drafted forward toward the orifice. Worsted-style drafting creates a stronger, less airy yarn that receives less abrasion from the loom.
Both wool and silk are protein-based fibers that respond well to avocado dye, so there was lovely contrast between the resist areas and the dyed fiber.

Rachel spun a lofty two-ply yarn using a Polwarth and silk blend to create a cozy scarf with a hint of silk shimmer.

Weaving Notes

Structure
Plain weave.
Equipment
Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 7½-dent reed; 1 shuttle.
Fiber
85% Polwarth/15% silk combed top, 12 oz.
Yarns
Warp and weft yarns were created from the same handspun yarn that was dyed after spinning: 2-ply, 327 yd (warp: 200 yd; weft: 127 yd), 12 wpi, 432 ypp.
Warp: Central ikat dyed with resist ties, 100 yd; two side stripes dyed solid pink, 50 yd; two undyed side stripes, 50 yd.
Weft: Solid pink, 127 yd.
Warp Length 72 ends 100" long (allows 7" for take-up and 21" for loom waste).
Other Supplies
Avocado dye; scrap yarn; plastic shopping bag cut into strips about 1" wide to create resist ties.
Setts
Warp: 7½ epi (1/dent in a 7½-dent reed).
Weft: 6 ppi.
Dimensions
Width in the reed: 9.6".
Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 72" (1" beyond the ikat motif).
Finished size: 9" × 63½" plus 5½" fringe at each end.

Figure 1. Ikat cartoon. Wrap strips of plastic around warp threads to form dye resists for the areas shown in black on the cartoon. Rachel worked cartoon from bottom to top, then rotated the cartoon upside down to repeat the line, dots, and chevron once more.

Figure 2. Warp color order.

1. Wind a warp of 36 ends 100" long using undyed yarn and leave under tension on the warping pegs.

2. Enlarge Figure 1 to 5" × 11" or draw your own cartoon as a pattern guide. Measure 15" from the end of the warp and mark with scrap yarn. This 15" allowance will give you space to create fringe and tie the warp on your loom leaving the ikat-style motif uninterrupted. Place the cartoon under the warp, positioning it so the bottom of the motif is aligned with the scrap yarn. Remove the scrap yarn and begin wrapping the warp threads tightly with plastic strips in bundles of 2 warp threads in each wrap, following the cartoon pattern. It is important to measure your warp carefully and keep the ends sequentially organized throughout the tying, dyeing, and warping process. The bundles need to line up on your loom to create a motif. Repeat the measuring and tying process at the other end of the warp.

3. Wind a warp of 18 ends 100" long to be dyed a solid color with avocado dye. Finally, wind a warp of 18 ends 100" long to be left undyed.

4. After the warp is measured, grouped, and tied where necessary, follow the details outlined on page 52 to dye your warp. Rinse the warp, remove resist ties, and allow to dry.

5. Centering for a weaving width of 10", sley 1 per dent in a 7½-dent reed following the warping scheme in Figure 2. Be careful to line up your ikat-style design as you dress your loom. It is important to keep checking the cartoon image as you tension the warp threads. It is much easier to make small adjustments now than while you are weaving.

6. Wind the shuttle with scrap yarn. Weave a header that measures 1" before the ikat-style design. Switch to your weft yarn, leaving a tail at least three times the width of the scarf, and weave at least 1" in plain weave. Using the tail and a tapestry needle, hemstitch the edge of your scarf.

7. Continue in plain weave 1" beyond the second ikat-style design. Hemstitch the edge of the scarf.

8. Leaving at least 7" for fringe on both ends, cut the fabric from the loom. Twist the fringe in bundles of 4 threads.

9. Wet-finish in warm water by gently agitating in mild detergent and then leave the scarf to soak for 20 minutes. Rinse if necessary and line-dry. Trim the fringe to 5½".

Rachel Simmons loves fiber in all its forms. She maintains a blog, sharing her experiences in hopes that it might help other curious fiber artists. Learn more at yarntyouglad.com.