Linen is a humble fiber that weaves its way through the tapestry of our lives, quietly and steadfastly. Linen, derived from the resilient flax plant, has left an indelible mark on our history, culture, and language. It has adorned the sails of ships, swathed the mummified remains of ancient civilizations, and provided the backbone of wartime necessities. Today, as we navigate a world veiled in synthetic fabrics, I am resolute in my determination to ensure that the enduring legacy of flax and linen does not fade into oblivion.
Flax Heritage
I have long been fascinated by the world of linen and flax, ever since I put on my first Latvian folk costume, made by my grandmother. The crisp linen shirt was so intricately designed and cool in contrast to the heavy wool skirt, which was not. Old linen sheets, passed down through immigrant generations, made up my bed in the summer—a kind of magical cloth that never got warm.
One of my favorite Latvian folk songs even speaks of the beauty of the flax fields with:
Bloom, my flax fields, with blue little flowers.
Come the autumn, I will bring you a delicate flax spinner.
In the intricate tapestry of my family heritage, threads of linen culture and history are tightly interwoven. With one half of my lineage tracing back to Latvia, and the other tracing its roots to Ireland, the air is saturated with the stories of my ancestors’ hands deftly working with the resilient flax fibers.
When I learned that this magical cloth can be grown and produces beautiful purple flowers that only bloom for a day? I was smitten.
During processing, the woody parts of the flax plant are removed to reveal long, fine flax fibers.
Starting a Flax Spinning Journey
My first stop on my path toward homegrown cloth was Flaxland in the United Kingdom, started by Simon and Ann Cooper of Stroud, tucked away in a hilly region below the Cotswolds. Simon has been making coated flax fiber canoes for years, and has been key in reviving interest in the industry, not just for home spinners and weavers.
The first day of the two-day workshop was spent getting to know the history of flax and linen, quickly moving to hands-on processing of already retted and dried flax. While Flaxland grows their own flax, for demonstrations and bulk processing, the flax is imported from the Netherlands.
After a quick rippling to remove the seed pods, we used a brake to loosen up the harder outer layer to get at the fiber beneath. The straw clinging to the fiber is commonly called boon. Flaxland also has a rolling device, reminiscent of a vintage hair crimper, to do the breaking a bit faster. Then, we moved on to scutching—removing straw from the fiber—which can be done with anything from an ornate scutching knife (antique or otherwise) and sideboard, or another improvised implement. Then on to the hackling process, which, just like hair brushing, starts from the lowest part before moving up. We started with the coarser hackles, before using the finer ones as the flax became softer, shinier, more hair-like. Any boon not removed during scutching will come off at this point. Then, you have a workable flax strick from which to spin. The tow—short bits removed during processing—can also be spun. Tow was also historically used as a stuffing for pillows and mattresses, and it was also used as a fire starter.
The author working flax through the hackles in the outdoor studio space at Flaxland.
Spinning Flax
We began our spinning journey the second day with a drop spindle and a distaff. As a beginner, I found this challenging. Spinning flax is not unlike spinning cotton candy: it wants to stick, but it also may come apart if you look at it wrong. The linen yarn I spun on the drop spindle was coarse.
Later, we graduated to the wheel, where I felt the flax really turn into solidly workable linen threads between the distaff and the bobbin. The result here was finer, more consistent, and easier to control. Throughout the process, wearing a mask is recommended, as small fibers fly everywhere.
After spinning, you have a few options to finish the yarn. You may leave the yarn on the bobbin to set the twist if the yarn is damp, or wind it on to a niddy-noddy. Historically, linen yarn was handled in different ways before use, including being steamed and dried. You may also wish to scour first to be sure your final project will not be subject to extra shrinking. Today, spinners often scour handspun linen by placing the yarn in simmering water for about two hours with some dishsoap or detergent. You will likely notice how dirty the water is, so rinse it with warm water until clear.
Lilija experimented with different preparations for spinning flax.
Growing My Own
Flax is such an ingenious little plant because it will grow heartily in almost any soil condition except heavy clay or very dry, sandy soil. Flax is an annual, as one might expect from a plant you completely uproot to harvest, taking about 90–100 days from planting to time of harvest.
After researching what grows best in my corner of the Pacific Northwest, I found the Linore variety, which was developed by Oregon State University, and works as a fiber flax and oil seed flax. More importantly, it is winter hardy, which can be important depending on where you’re planning on growing your flax. After about 95 days, the lower part of the stalks I had planted turned a harvest-themed golden yellow, signifying that it was time to harvest.
Lilija's experience with traditional linens inspired her to try her hand at growing and processing her own flax.
Future of Flax
The primary issue with a true flax and linen industry revival is the lack of mills. In fact, where there were once dozens of mills in the United States, there are now none for linen. In 1942 alone, Oregon harvested 37,000 tons of flax which was processed in 14 mills in the local region. By 1951, however, this was down to 3,400 tons harvested and already four mills had closed.
The North American Linen Association was established in September 2022, signaling some big movement in the industry. Fibrevolution of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, along with Chico Flax of the Sacramento Valley, have been working on regenerative growing and processing systems for flax. Fibrevolution actively holds workshops on growing, processing, and production, and is an active part of the organic farming of other bast fibers, such as hemp. Shannon Welsh (also Executive Director of the North American Linen Association) and Angela Wartes-Kahl, who has managed the Oregon Tilth's fiber and textiles program, cofounded Fibrevolution with the intent to revitalize Oregon’s once-flourishing industry, conducting tireless research and development as well as community organization.
With a rich history spanning over 30,000 years, flax has an enduring beauty and versatility of flax that continue to captivate and inspire. With every thread I spin, I am contributing to the revival of a tradition that holds boundless possibilities. In a world hungry for sustainability, I dream of the return of flax to the mainstream.
Unspun flax fiber is twisted into stricks for storage.
Further Reading
- Seufferlein, Christiane. "Gathering Flax, Sharing Stories: How Antique Flax Can Connect Us to the Past" Spin Off Summer 2025, 41–45.
- Atton, Mavis. Flax Culture: From Flower to Fabric. Owen Sound, Ontario: The Ginger Press, 1988.
- Conner, Cindy. Homegrown Flax and Cotton: DIY Guide to Growing, Processing, Spinning & Weaving Fiber to Cloth. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2023.
- Heinrich, Linda. Linen: From seed to Woven Cloth. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Craft, 2010.
- MacFadyen, Joshua. Flax Americana, A History of the Fibre and Oil That Covered a Continent. Montreal, Quebec: McGill-Queen's University Press, 2018.
- Sandwith, Karla. "Try Flax Retting 2 Ways: Persuading Flax to Release its Fiber."
Resources
Lilija Lapsa is a weaver in a cozy forested corner of the Pacific Northwest, where she helps run Zvaigzne Designs, traveling frequently to Latvia and beyond to source fibers, unravel the mysteries of time-honored dyeing techniques, and connect with other fiber artists.
